The Ultimate Guide to Southcentral Alaska
Resurrection River - Photos in this post were taken on my iPhone, DJI Mini 3 Pro drone, and Fujifilm XT-5 using the Heartland, Grizzly Bear, and Oceanic 815 recipes
This post is especially meaningful to me because I get to share a place close to my heart, my home state, breathtaking Alaska. After spending my childhood in Alaska and over 18 years exploring this breathtaking state, you could say I know a thing or two about "The Last Frontier." Although there are many towns I’ve visited and would love to write about, this post is dedicated to Southcentral Alaska.
Southcentral Area and Best Way to Get Around
Taking a road trip around Southcentral Alaska is the best way to explore, as everything is quite spread out. Driving also gives you the flexibility to customize your itinerary and travel at your own pace. There are plenty of car rental options in Anchorage and other towns, or you can check out what's available on Turo. I personally recommend Turo. I’ve used Turo several times on other trips around the U.S. because it’s often more affordable than traditional rental companies. Fortunately, my grandparents let me use their car whenever I visit.
To truly experience the highlights, I’d suggest spending at least a week in the region. Of course, the more time you have, the better. Extra days will allow you to venture off the main roads, go hiking, fishing, wildlife viewing, or even travel to remote towns by water taxi. While I don’t go into detail about specific hikes in this post, I highly recommend doing a quick Google search for trails in each area you visit. Alaska has a vast number of trails that lead to glaciers, lakes, and so much more.
In this post, I’ll cover the following areas:
Mat-Su Valley
Anchorage
Seward Highway
Sterling Highway
Mat-Su Valley: Wasilla & Palmer
Wasilla and Palmer are the largest towns in the Matanuska-Susitna Valley (Mat-Su), located about 40 minutes north of Anchorage. I’ve grouped them together in this section because, with continued growth over the past few years, they’re gradually merging into one larger community. My dad’s side of the family lives in Wasilla, so my sister and I have spent quite a bit of time in the area.
The Mat-Su Valley is surrounded by towering mountains, perfect for hiking, including Lazy Mountain and The Butte. You'll also find several scenic lakes and rivers, making the region a haven for outdoor activities, especially in the summer. If you’re visiting in mid to late August, don’t miss the Alaska State Fair.
When it comes to food and drink, the valley offers plenty of options, including several great breweries. Two of my favorite spots are Krazy Moose Subs in Wasilla and the Palmer Alehouse in Palmer.
Hatcher Pass
Hatcher Pass, located in the Talkeetna Mountains about 50 minutes north of Wasilla and Palmer, is a popular destination for outdoor recreation. The area is home to the historic Independence Mine, along with countless mountains, lakes, rivers, hiking trails, and ski runs. It’s one of my favorite places to visit near Wasilla and Palmer. You could easily spend half a day exploring the mine or stretch your visit over several days hiking into the backcountry.
Hatcher Pass Lodge
If you’re looking to stay near the mine and surrounding trails in Hatcher Pass, Hatcher Pass Lodge is a great option. Located at the end of North Palmer Fishook Road, the lodge typically offers year-round accommodations. Keep in mind that these are dry cabins, so there’s no running water inside.
Even if you’re not staying overnight, the lodge is a great spot to stop for a snack and take in the stunning views of the valley below. The cabins are charming and fun to check out, even just to admire their unique design and setting.
Independence Mine State Historical Park
Independence Mine is just a short drive past Hatcher Pass Lodge. This abandoned gold mine operated from 1938 to 1951 and is now a fascinating historic site. In the summer, you can take a guided tour of the area or explore it on your own. In the winter, the mine is a snowy wonderland that offers fantastic cross-country skiing and snowshoeing opportunities.
You have two parking options: you can park in the large lot near the lodge and walk up to the mine, or you can try to find a spot in the lot located right next to the mine. If you're able to park closer, I highly recommend it. The walk from the lodge is about two miles round trip, and there is plenty of additional walking once you reach the site because the buildings are fairly spread out. Whichever lot you choose, be aware that there is a small parking fee.
Summit Lake
Right across from the lodge, you will notice Hatcher Pass Road winding up the hill into the mountains. This road stretches 49 miles through the Talkeetna Mountains and ends in the small town of Willow, located about 30 minutes north of Wasilla. You can start the drive from either Willow or Hatcher Pass. During the summer, the road provides access to some of the area's more remote wilderness. However, it is not maintained after snowfall, so much of it becomes inaccessible in the winter.
A popular stop along Hatcher Pass Road is Summit Lake, located just 15 minutes up the road from the lodge. This small, picturesque lake is surrounded by stunning mountain scenery. While the lake itself is beautiful, the main attraction in this area is paragliding. If you visit in the middle of summer, you’ll likely see paragliders soaring through the sky above.
Denali Flight Tour
One of my favorite winter experiences in the Mat-Su Valley was taking a flight tour to Denali, the third-highest peak in the world. (Fun fact: my uncle named my cousin after this mountain.) There are several companies that offer flight tours departing from both the Mat-Su Valley and Denali National Park. My family and I booked ours through K2 Aviation, which operates out of the small town of Talkeetna.
Talkeetna is about an hour and fifteen minutes north of Wasilla, just past Willow. Beyond the flight itself, Talkeetna is a charming town worth exploring if you have the time. It even had a famous honorary mayor: Stubbs the cat, who sadly passed away in 2017. During his time in office, Stubbs received countless cards and letters and attracted 30 to 40 tourists each day.
Mirror Lake
Mirror Lake is located about halfway between Anchorage and Wasilla. The shoreline is lined with beautiful homes and charming cabins, giving the area a cozy, inviting feel. This small, family-friendly lake is a great spot for swimming, relaxing on the beach, or enjoying activities like paddleboarding and kayaking.
Anchorage
Anchorage is the main hub that connects you to the rest of Alaska. It’s where you’ll most likely fly in and out of, especially if you're trying to access more remote villages. As the most populated city in Alaska, Anchorage is home to about 40% of the state’s residents. Compared to the rest of Alaska, the city definitely feels more fast-paced and crowded.
Anchorage has its own unique vibe, almost like a world apart from the rest of the state. Just a 10-minute drive outside the city can make you feel like you’ve entered an entirely different landscape. But the real magic of Alaska lies beyond city limits, getting out into nature and exploring the wild beauty that the state is known for.
If you do choose to spend a day or two in Anchorage, I recommend at least stopping by the Alaska Zoo. It’s a fun way to see some of the state’s wildlife up close before heading into the real wilderness.
Seward Highway
The Seward Highway stretches about 125 miles from Anchorage to the coastal town of Seward. Without a doubt, it ranks in my top three most scenic drives of all time. Remember how I said that leaving Anchorage feels like entering another world? As soon as you head south out of the city, you're greeted by the dramatic shoreline of Turnagain Arm and endless mountain ranges in every direction.
There are countless beautiful and fascinating places to stop along the Seward Highway, so let’s dive into a few highlights.
Anchorage to Girdwood
Immediately after leaving Anchorage, you’ll spot Potter Marsh Bird Sanctuary on your left. (Any Harry Potter fans out there?) As the name suggests, it’s a great place for birdwatching while strolling along the scenic boardwalk.
But birds aren't the only wildlife you might encounter along the highway. About five miles farther is Beluga Point, a popular spot to look for beluga whales. These graceful creatures are often seen here and at other viewpoints along Turnagain Arm from mid-July through August, when salmon are running in the Cook Inlet.
About five miles past Beluga Point, you’ll spot Falls Creek Waterfall cascading down the mountainside on your left. This marks the start of Falls Creek Trail, just one of many scenic hikes along Turnagain Arm.
For the next 15 miles, you’ll pass a series of pullouts. Don’t hesitate to stop whenever you see one, each offers a unique perspective. If you're looking to spend more time in the area, consider staying at Bird Creek Campground or exploring one of the many trails tucked just off the highway.
Near the end of Turnagain Arm lies the small town of Girdwood. You’ll know you’ve arrived when you see a large gas station off the highway on your left. This busy stop is significant because it is the last major rest area with fuel until you reach either Moose Pass on the Seward Highway or Cooper Landing on the Sterling Highway. So, be sure to grab some snacks, take a restroom break, and fill up your tank!
Girdwood is home to Alyeska Ski Resort, a popular winter destination that attracts skiers and snowboarders from around the world. While it’s best known for its winter sports, there’s also plenty to do in the summer. During the summer, the resort’s scenic tram remains open and will carry you up to the summit of Mount Alyeska for stunning views. There are also numerous hiking trails in and around the resort, as well as throughout the Girdwood area.
Portage Lake & Whittier
At the far end of Turnagain Arm, you’ll find the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center, a sanctuary dedicated to protecting and caring for Alaskan wildlife. Right across the highway lies Portage Glacier Road, which offers a mix of hiking trails and campgrounds, but its main highlights are Portage Lake and the tiny town of Whittier.
About halfway down the road is Portage Lake, home to both Byron Glacier and the more distant Portage Glacier. The trail to Byron Glacier is located near the Begich, Boggs Visitor Center, where you can also catch views of both glaciers. To get a closer look at Portage Glacier, you’ll either need to take a boat tour across the lake or hike the Portage Pass Trail from Whittier.
Whittier itself is a quirky, one-road-in kind of town, accessible only by driving through a one-lane train tunnel. (Check the schedule here ahead of time to avoid waiting.) While the town is small and doesn’t offer much in the way of attractions, the surrounding area is rich with outdoor adventures, including hiking and jet ski tours to Blackstone Bay.
Introduction to the Kenai Peninsula
Past the entrance to Portage Glacier Road, you'll spot the “Welcome to Alaska’s Kenai Peninsula” sign. Every time I pass it, a wave of peace washes over me because I know I’m back home.
The Kenai Peninsula is truly an outdoor lover’s paradise. It’s teeming with wildlife, from moose and bears to bald eagles, and offers endless hiking trails, rivers and lakes perfect for paddling, and some of the best fishing in the state. Whether you’re kayaking through glacial waters or spotting wildlife from the roadside, adventure is always just around the corner here.
After passing the sign, you'll be surrounded by the stunning scenery of Turnagain Pass, often simply called "the pass." Its landscape is filled with towering mountains, dense forests, cascading waterfalls, and serene lakes and rivers.
One of my favorite places to stop is Lower Summit Lake. On the north shore of the lake sit two charming cabins that I’ve driven past countless times. I’ve always thought they were absolutely adorable. I’m pretty sure these cabins aren’t occupied year-round since they’re quite far from any grocery stores, but I’ve always been curious about who owns them. Every time I pass them, I find myself daydreaming about living in one of them, spending my days hiking, exploring, and enjoying the peace and quiet.
Tern Lake
Arriving at Tern Lake marks a fork in the road. You can either continue straight on the Seward Highway toward Seward or take a right onto the Sterling Highway, which leads to the rest of the Kenai Peninsula. For now, we’re heading toward Seward for another 37 miles, but I’ll cover the Sterling Highway later on.
Before continuing either direction, it’s definitely worth stopping at the Tern Lake Pullout. The lake is stunning and offers breathtaking views. If you’re lucky, you might even catch a glimpse of swans gliding across the water.
Moose Pass
As you drive toward Seward, you’ll pass through a few small towns, including the charming town of Moose Pass. Moose Pass sits peacefully along the shores of Trail Lakes, making it a picturesque stop. Further along the road, you’ll catch glimpses of the massive Kenai Lake and other hidden lakes tucked away in the surrounding mountains. This stretch of highway also offers several pullouts and hiking trails, perfect for stretching your legs and exploring the beautiful scenery.
Seward
Seward is one of my favorite cities in Alaska, and I highly recommend spending at least one or two nights here. The area is surrounded by scenic hiking trails and offers plenty of water activities on Resurrection Bay. The bay stretches south of Seward and is filled with hidden gems that are only accessible by boat. To explore the bay, you’ll find a variety of tour options, from guided kayaking trips to full-day cruises. I definitely suggest looking into the different tours ahead of time and booking one during your stay in Seward.
Downtown
Downtown Seward is a fun place to wander through, filled with charming shops and cozy restaurants. As you stroll around, you’ll notice many buildings adorned with colorful, hand-painted murals that add so much character to the town. Right along the shoreline of Resurrection Bay is the Alaska SeaLife Center, an aquarium and the state’s only permanent marine mammal rehabilitation facility. This was one of my favorite spots growing up, and I even considered interning there while pursuing my environmental science degree. It’s a great stop for all ages, especially if you’re traveling with little ones.
Seward Boat Harbor
Seward Harbor is bustling during the summer months, welcoming everything from fishing boats and cruise ships to U.S. Coast Guard vessels. The harbor area is packed with things to do, including restaurants, art galleries, shops, and check-in spots for adventures like ziplining. One of my favorite places to grab a bite is The Porthole, a cozy food truck with great breakfast and lunch options. If you're in the mood for a more upscale seafood experience, Ray’s Waterfront is a fantastic choice with beautiful views and fresh catches.
Exit Glacier
Exit Glacier is fed by the Harding Icefield in the Kenai Mountains. Sadly, it has receded dramatically over the past several years due to global warming. When I visited in 2015, I was able to walk right up to it along the beach and touch the toe of the glacier. Now, it has melted so far back into the surrounding rock that it's no longer accessible from the lower trail. Visitors can’t touch the glacier anymore due to safety concerns in the ice fall hazard zone. There are stunning views available from several trails and Exit Glacier Viewpoint The most popular is the Exit Glacier Trail, a 2.5-mile roundtrip hike with about 300 feet of elevation gain.
The Sterling Highway
Now we’re heading to the southern section of the Kenai Peninsula. The Sterling Highway begins at Tern Lake and stretches 132 miles all the way to Homer. As you drive, you’ll pass even more breathtaking landscapes filled with mountains, lakes, and winding rivers. If you’re lucky, you might even spot a moose! It’s actually pretty common for moose to wander onto the road, so keep your eyes peeled. Despite their massive size, they have a surprising ability to appear out of nowhere.
Cooper Landing
Cooper Landing is the first town you’ll come across after turning onto the Sterling Highway at Tern Lake. From here, you can go whitewater rafting down the Kenai River, fish for salmon, camp by one of the lakes like Hidden Lake or Skilak Lake, or hit the trails for a hike. Two trails I’ve done in this area are Skilak Lookout Trail and Slaughter Ridge Trail. If you’re in need of a bite to eat, I recommend stopping at Wildman’s along the highway. They serve up tasty homemade sandwiches and milkshakes.
Soldotna & Kenai
Soldotna and Kenai are a fisherman’s paradise. As you follow the Sterling Highway, you’ll pass through Soldotna first, with Kenai just 11 miles to the west. The Kenai River, often called the world’s greatest sportfishing river, winds its way from the Cook Inlet near Kenai all the way through Soldotna and down to Cooper Landing. It’s also one of the most heavily used freshwater fisheries in Alaska. Every summer, fishermen flock to its banks in hopes of reeling in prized king salmon, along with other types of salmon and trout.
Johnson Lake
Johnson Lake sits about 16 miles south of Soldotna in the small town of Kasilof. Tucked away from the Sterling Highway, it’s not as well-known as some of the other lakes in the area. It holds a lot of nostalgia for me and is worth a stop. Further down the road to the east of Johnson Lake is Tustumena Lake, a massive body of water that makes Johnson Lake look like a tiny speck in comparison.
Ninilchik
From Johnson Lake, head south for about 25 miles, passing through Clam Gulch, until you reach my hometown, Ninilchik. It’s a tiny town with a population of fewer than 1,000 people and just one K–12 school. My graduating class? A grand total of 12 students. Since Ninilchik is far removed from city life, we kept ourselves busy with four-wheeling, horseback riding, sledding, snowmachining, fishing, clam digging, and endless bike rides. It’s the perfect spot to spend a weekend if you’re looking to camp along the beach, join a local fishing charter, or explore the nearby wilderness. If you visit in early August, don’t miss Salmonfest, one of Alaska’s most beloved music festivals, held right here in town.
Russian Orthodox Church – Transfiguration of Our Lord Church
Even though Ninilchik is considered an Alaskan Native village, there’s also a strong Russian lineage within the community. Alaska Russian was widely spoken in the area for around 200 years. To this day, there are groups of Russian descendants who have settled in towns south of Ninilchik, like Voznesenka, Nikolaevsk, and Razdolna. In Ninilchik itself, the Russian Orthodox Church has been standing proudly since 1901. A small graveyard surrounds the church, and just near its entrance, you’ll catch peaceful views overlooking Ninilchik Beach.
Ninilchik Beach
Ninilchik Beach and Deep Creek Beach are two of the best spots in Alaska for razor clam digging. Both beaches boast stunning views of the active volcanoes Mount Iliamna and Mount Redoubt across the Cook Inlet. During the summer fishing season, the public boat harbor at the mouth of the Ninilchik River on Ninilchik Beach becomes one of the busiest places in town. Just down the road from the harbor, you might spot a staircase climbing up the hillside next to the beach. These stairs lead to one of the local campgrounds, Ninilchik View Campground.
Deep Creek Beach
Growing up, I had a view of Deep Creek Beach from my window, which meant I got to watch the sun rise over the Cook Inlet while getting ready for school. Since we lived less than five minutes from Deep Creek, we’d hop on our 4-wheeler and cruise down to the beach, winding through Deep Creek Campground and heading south along the shoreline to Happy Valley Falls. In the summer, this beach buzzes with activity, as most local fishing charters launch into the Cook Inlet from the Deep Creek Boat Launch.
Both my stepdad and grandfather ran their own charters from Deep Creek, and I got to earn a small paycheck helping out. I’d clean my stepdad’s boat and vacuum pack fish after he and my grandpa filleted them for their customers. Some charters fillet halibut right on the beach, which means halibut carcasses often wash ashore. It’s not the most pleasant smell, but it draws in Alaska’s iconic bald eagles. The rivers and beaches around Ninilchik are full of them. After years of being around boats and beaches every summer, I’d say the scent of dead fish is oddly familiar, maybe even comforting in its own salty, fishy way.
Homer
Homer is about 37 miles south of Ninilchik and easily one of my favorite towns in Alaska. On the way, you’ll pass through Happy Valley and Anchor Point, catching occasional glimpses of the Cook Inlet along the drive. As you arrive in Homer, the road gently climbs a small hill before revealing sweeping 180-degree views of Kachemak Bay. It’s a view that never gets old.
From Homer, you can hop on a boat tour, water taxi, ferry, or even a small plane to reach nearby towns, glaciers, islands, beaches, and the stunning Kachemak Bay State Park. There are so many tours to choose from, so it’s definitely worth doing a quick search to find one that matches your interests if you're looking to explore beyond Homer.
Two of my favorite spots to visit are Seldovia, a charming town across the bay, and the Center for Alaskan Coastal Studies in Peterson Bay, where you can learn more about the area’s marine life. Halibut Cove is another beautiful destination that’s absolutely worth checking out. While you're in town, don’t miss the Maritime National Wildlife Refuge Visitor Center, it's a great place to get your bearings and learn about the local ecosystem.
The Spit
The Spit is without a doubt the main attraction in Homer. As you crest the hill I mentioned earlier, you'll spot it stretching out into Kachemak Bay like a long, thick finger. Extending 4.5 miles into the water, The Spit is packed with quirky shops, cozy restaurants, scenic beaches, jaw-dropping mountain views, and even an ice rink.
One of the most important parts of The Spit is the Homer Harbor. It’s a hub of activity, especially during the summer months, with fishing boats, tour vessels, and salty sea dogs coming and going throughout the day.
Homer Harbor
One of the most exciting spots on The Spit is the Homer Harbor. In the summer, it buzzes with energy as fishing boats, water taxis, tour vessels, and the Kachemak Bay Ferry all come and go in a flurry of activity. This is where salty sea captains gear up for the day and tourists hustle to their next adventure.
The harbor area is also packed with shops and restaurants, though keep in mind that many places near the harbor tend to be on the pricier side since they cater to visitors. If you're looking to save a bit, there are more affordable eats off The Spit.
One of my favorite things to do here is to simply walk down the ramps and explore. The Homer Harbor is massive, and it’s easy to spend a couple of hours wandering the docks, checking out the endless variety of boats, each one with its own personality and story. You will notice that each boat has its own name. It’s common for fishermen to name their boat after their wife, but some boats will have a more creative name.
Land’s End
At the very tip of The Spit, just beyond the Homer Harbor, you’ll find Land’s End, a resort and restaurant tucked right next to the ferry terminal. I’ve never actually stayed at the resort, but the restaurant is definitely on the fancier side. Growing up, my family would treat us to a dinner here every once in a while, which felt like such a big deal.
The very end of The Spit curves around the resort and is a great place to fish, watch the boats glide by, or just take in the stunning, unobstructed views of the surrounding mountains. It’s the perfect spot to slow down, breathe in the salty air, and soak in the beauty of Kachemak Bay.
Note for the reader: I share these locations so that others can see beautiful places and enjoy nature as much as I do. Please be respectful of the outdoors and what condition it is in when you visit. Don’t go off trail, leave no trace, and pack out what you came in with.
